New Italian Cuisine: The Romans, who were great at documenting things, never mentioned the tomato. There's a good reason for that...the species--Solanum lycopersicum--is a tender perennial that's native to the Andes region in South America. However, genus Solanum isn't restricted to the New World. Yes, the potato (S. tuberosum) is also from the Andes, but for instance the egg plant (S. melongena) is from India and the purple African nightshade (S. marginatum) is native to Ethiopia.
Why mention the purple African nightshade? Well, it's one of several sources of solasodine.
In the 1980s, Solanum marginatum was experimentally used by a pharmaceutical company to produce birth-control pills. The standard source for the hormones in oral contraceptives had been diosgenin, which is chemically very similar to progesterone and oestrogen, which was harvested from wild yams--dioscoreas--mostly in Mexico. It was thought to be becoming unsustainable and so alternatives were tried for the production of diosgenin analogues. A plantation was established in Ecuador and the fruits harvested to extract the solasodine, which was then chemically changed to diosgenin. However, this practice too proved unsustainable over time, and it became cheaper to produce diosgenin chemically rather than to harvest it from plants.
However, the kangaroo apple (S. aviculare) has been cultivated since the '60s in Russia and Hungary for the production of steroid contraceptives like "the pill." The native of Australia and New Zealand is an invasive species in parts of California and Oregon. It's one of several members of the genus that produces solasodine.
From a classification perspective, genus Solanum--a member of the nightshade family--is a mess. It has somewhere 1,500 and 2,000 species, with the tomato being one of the newer ones. Its former scientific name, Lycopersicon esculentum, means edible wolf peach. More on that in a moment.
By the by, if the name Solanum sounds familiar for a different reason, maybe you've read "The Zombie Survival Guide." Solanum is the fictional virus that creates zombies.
Vegetable?: We don't often think of putting berries in lettuce-based salads or adding them to burgers, but the tomato is actually a berry. That's because its fruit comes from a single superior ovary.
A superior ovary is an ovary attached to the receptacle above the attachment of other floral parts.
Other examples of berries are the chili pepper, eggplant, grape, guava, and kiwifruit. However, several of what we traditionally think of as berries--like the blackberry and raspberry--are aggregate fruits rather than berries. The strawberry is a "false fruit" because it grows from the base of the flower rather than the ovary. The little seeds on the surface of a strawberry are the actual berries. The blueberry is a "false berry" because it has an inferior ovary.
An inferior ovary lies below the attachment of other floral parts.
Other false berries include bananas, cranberries, melons, gourds, cucumbers, cantaloupes, and members of the cactus family.
Meanwhile, vegetable is a culinary rather than scientific term. It's also a legal term.
The United States Congress passed the Tariff Act of 1883, a rather innocuous piece of legislation requiring a 10% tax on imported vegetables, in response to growing international trade. Just a few short years later, a tomato importer evaluated the law closely, and decided to challenge it on the botanical grounds that a tomato was in fact technically a fruit, not a vegetable, and should therefore be exempt from said tax. John Nix's case posed merit enough to land the case before the Supreme Court in 1893. In Nix vs Hedden, 149 U.S. 304 (1893), Justice Gray wrote, "Botanically speaking, tomatoes are fruits of a vine, just as are cucumbers, squashes, beans, and peas. But in the common language of the people...all these are vegetables, which are grown in kitchen gardens, and which, whether eaten cooked or raw, are, like potatoes, carrots, parsnips, turnips, beets, cauliflower, cabbage, celery and lettuce, usually served at dinner in, with or after the soup, fish or meats which constitute the principal part of the repast, and not, like fruits generally, as dessert." The court rejected the botanical truth that the tomato is in fact a monstrously sized berry, and deferred to the culinary vernacular of vegetable to describe it. Thus is tax yet paid on imported tomatoes.
Our lawmakers have a long history of corrupting science.
The Little Yellow Berry: Early peoples in South America used the tiny dried berries of the tomato as decoration. However, there's no evidence the Incans or their ancestors ever grew or used tomatoes as food. Best as researchers can tell, the tomato was domesticated in Central America. Moving northward, genetic evidence points to modern tomatoes being derived from the small, yellow, and probably rough-skinned berries the Aztecs cultivated and consumed. Curiously though, the only edible wild tomatoes are ones with red berries.
There is no record of who brought the tomato to Europe...the earliest documentation of the berry is by an Italian scientist. It was called the pomo d'oro--the golden apple. Italians weren't quick to begin eating the berry. That's because it looks like several of its poisonous relatives in the nightshade family.
Deadly nightshade, Atropus belladonna, in particular bears good resemblance to a tomato plant. It is a poisonous plant which has been used as both a hallucinogenic drug and a beauty aid in different parts of Europe. The Latin name "belladonna" literally means beautiful woman, in reference to the practice of ladies in medieval courts who would apply a few drops of nightshade extract to their eyes to dilate their pupils, a look considered most fashionable at the time. The hallucinogenic properties of the plant, comprised of visions and the sense of flying, most likely led to the association of nightshade with witchcraft. Old German folklore has it that witches used plants of the nightshade family to evoke werewolves, a practice known as lycanthropy.
The tomato first appears in an Italian cookbook (published in Naples, where the modern pizza was developed) in 1692. Tomato sauces gradually joined and in some cases replaced the traditional white sauces in Italy.
It was British colonists who brought the tomato back from Europe to America.
The Influx: A few short years ago, The U.S. was the world's leading producer of tomatoes. Nowadays, China produces about a quarter of the world's supply (130 million tonnes in 2007), which is almost triple the amount grown in the U.S. We rank second, ahead of Turkey, India, and Egypt. From an article published in late 2007...
China, it turns out, now grows more tomatoes for processing—the kind that get turned into ketchup, pasta sauce, salsa—than any place in the world besides California, and maybe Italy. The precipitous rise of the country's tomato industry, which scarcely existed a decade ago, is wreaking some havoc. The Senegalese claim that cheap Chinese tomato paste is driving farmers off the land. Turks, Aussies, and Russians have similar complaints. The Italians are especially unhappy: The Silk Road over which Marco Polo brought home the pasta has turned into a pipeline of cheap tomato paste.
Yet, most Chinese shun tomatoes.
Nevertheless, in 1993, a private domestic company called Tunhe decided to start growing tomatoes in China's arid western highlands, an area studded with camel herds, yurts, oil derricks, and ancient underground irrigation systems.
Most of the tomatoes are grown in the province of Xinjiang, an ancient, landlocked crossroads on the Silk Road where many of the natives are Kazakhs, Uyghurs, or members of various Muslim ethnic groups. A few years ago, Tunhe went flamboyantly bankrupt and was taken over by a Chinese state-run food conglomerate, Cofco. Its chief competitor in the tomato business is the Chinese army. The army's Xinjiang Production and Construction Corps is a shadow power in the province and has about 1 million employees.
...
The point of growing all these tomatoes in Xinjiang—as well as in Inner Mongolia and Gansu province—was not so much to secure vital spaghetti Bolognese resources for China, as it was to create jobs for some of the Han Chinese sent to the region during the heroic age of Chinese communism.
The influx of Han Chinese has been a major source of discontent amongst the native Uyghurs. China has been struggling with violence in the remote western province (examples here and here).
Some Italians are especially worked up over what they view as a Faustian bargain their industry made here. In the 1990s, searching for cheap product for their export markets, Italian companies began setting up tomato-processing plants in China to provide paste, which Italian canners repackaged, slapped with "Made in Italy" stickers, and shipped to Africa. Soon, though, the Chinese figured out a way to market their paste directly to the Africans and began selling it in Europe as well. In 2002, customs agents seized 160 tons of rotting, worm-infested Chinese paste at the Italian port of Bari. Much to their horror, Italian consumers soon learned that some of the paste on their shelves had come from China, where, as it was pointed out, there were lax controls on sanitation, pesticides, and heavy-metal contamination. "Italy—Invaded by Chinese tomatoes!" screamed a Corriere della Sera article in 2005. That year, Italian tomatoes rotted in the fields because Chinese paste imports had lowered the price so far that the Italian tomatoes were no longer worth harvesting.
Free land, almost free labor, and a lax regulatory environment are hard to compete with.
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